Day 22. Tue. 25th May day in Jomsom

A free day in Jomsom. The view from our campsite to the Nilgiris.

In the evening we had a celebration party for our sherpas and porters who had been magnificent.

Ram and Ratnaman.

Day 21. Mon. 24th May. Walk to Jomsom 2,800 m.

Today we climbed down about 2,000 m., 6,500 ft. to reach trek's end at the village of Jomsom.Spent most of the day walking parallel to the Nilgiris.
After about an hour we had tremendous views of Dhaulagiri - 7th highest mountain in the world at 8,167 m., 26,795 ft.
Then, at last, that first beer! And wasn't it good.
Later we adjourned to the 'Snooker and Pool House Pub'. Ouch!

Rumour has it that Jez was locked out of our campsite and had to sleep with the porters!

Day 20. Sun. 23rd May. Eastern Pass 5,340 m. - 17,519 ft. Mesokantu La High Pass 5,400 m. - 17,716 ft. Camp, High Kharka

A tough day this. 17.5 km. virtually all over 5,000 m. We started at sunrise.Great views of glaciers and the Great Barrier.

Malcolm spotted this ammonite. At 5 km. up in the sky we were really walking along the bed of the Tethys sea from 100 million years ago.
This is the only glimpse we got of the summit of Annapurna I, climbed by Herzog & Lachenal 60 years before.
We had a little bit of rope-assisted descent.
Eventually our campsite - and don't John & Jeremy look pleased to be there?

Day 19. Sat. 22nd May. Tilicho Lake viewpoint 4990 m. - 16,371 ft. Camp, Tilicho High Camp. 5,035 m. - 16,519 m.; ascent, 885 m. - 2,903 ft.

MY 57th BIRTHDAY

We started up towards Tilicho Lake. This was the view looking back down towards Manang.
This is taken from a German website - 'Die Berge des Himalaya' with the mountains labled. (Clicking on the picture should make it larger and readable)
The Great Barrier was right next to us giving off the occasional small avalanche.
Middle of the day we reached Tilicho Lake - still frozen over - at 4,919 m. We looked down on it from just over 5,000 m.

Many photographs taken. Here, Joe, Phil, Sir Chris & myself.

Day 18. Fri. 21st May. Climb to point 4,560 m. - 14,960 ft.

Krys & Dave & Phil.... NOOOOO! Don't drink it Phil!Joe, Jon, Phil, Malcolm, Andy & I go for a 1,500 ft climb up a ridge then a fast scree run down. Brill.
Marvellous view of Herzog's 'Grande Barrier' with Roc Noir and Glacier Dome.
Today was Malcolm's 60th Birthday. And, Yes, he got a cake baked by Ratnaman.

Day 17. Thu. 20th May. Tea - Khangsar 3,734 m. - 12,200 ft. Camp, Tilicho Base Camp 4,150 m. - 13,610 ft.; ascent, 610 m. - 2,001 ft.

A long day's walk uphill across massive scree slopes.After lunch there was a spot of inclement weather.




Eventually we made camp next to the Tilicho Base Camp Hotel - rather pleasant place in the middle of nowhere.

Day 16. Wed. 19th May. Lunch - Braga 3,360 m. Camp, Manang. 3,540 m. - 11,610 ft.

A morning's walk brought us to Braga with it's 500 year old monastery - imposingly medieval.Not much further and we entered Manang by this old stupa.
We were soon settled in the Hotel Moonlight and with this luxury bedroom in the Yak Hotel.

Phil & I went walking into the old part of town to find a ceremony going on in the gompa. It was the funeral service for an 88 year old Lama. We were invited in and given a cup of rather good yak butter tea.

A half hour's walk in the afternoon brought us to a very old and unused gompa with a splendid decorated yak skull hanging at the door

Day 15. Tue. 18th May. Walk to 4,387 m. - 14,393 ft.

There was a very distinct ridge from camp to a high point in the centre of the valley. We went up it, somewhat short of breath, stopping every hundred metres or so.Sensational views up to Annapurnas II, IV & III and back, across the valley to the Chulu group.
Having left camp 45 minutes after us, Sir Chris stormed to the top about 5 minutes behind!
Then it was a sort of bathtime for the boys. I had a very brief and hugely bracing skinny-dip in the river 'a la Mallory'.

Day 14. Mon. 17th May. Annapurna II Base Camp 3,800 m. - 12,467 ft.; ascent, 520 m. - 1,706 ft.

Phil & me at the lake where we'd camped. On this day - the 50th anniversary of Sir Chris's ascent of Annapurna II with Dick Grant & Ang Nyima - we were heading up the valley to the base camp.After breakfast in the old mountaineering school we got Chris to vandalise one of the beams.
It was an emotional moment on reaching the old base camp. Here is Sir Chris with Malcolm and Andy Grant, son and grandson of Dick Grant, his fellow summiteer of 50 years before - to the day!

The sun setting behind Annapurna III.

Day 13. Sun. 16th May. Tea - Ghyaru 3,670 m. Lunch - Ngawa 3,660 m. Camp, Hongde 3,280 m. - 10,760 ft.; ascent, 80 m. - 265 ft.

Yet another beautiful morning as we left Pisang for the 1,200 ft. climb up to the village of Ghyaru. We passed a lake reflecting Annapurna II to perfection.We were deep in the heart of Buddhist country with many mani stones - Om mani padme hum.


There was a fairly level track over to the next village of Ngawa.
As we entered the village we had this stunning view of Annapurna III and Gangapurna.
At the village gompa there was a ceremony going on and we were able to sit quietly for 20 minutes or so and absorb the atmosphere.
That evening we reached the village of Hongde and stayed at an old mountaineering school.