Wed. 25th April. To the North Col. 6,700 m.

The plan was to get to the fixed ropes at the base of the North Col. This meant walking about 2 km. up from ABC to 'Crampon Point' where donning the crampons let us walk another km. across the glacier to the ropes.

If you look closely (or click on this photo) you can see a line of over 30 Sherpas carrying gear up to the top of the North Col at 7,000 m.

We had this very clear view of the north ridge, the north-east ridge (with 1st, 2nd & 3rd steps) and the summit.

Dorje amd me posing directly in line with the summit, cloud streaming off the pinnacles.

The surprisingly welcome sight of ABC.

Tue. 24th April. Ice Climbing.

Dorje and a few of the other sherpas set up some ropes on these ice cliffs on the glacier. We donned our harnesses and crampons and spent the morning jumarring, abseiling and, briefly, ice climbing with picks. Very exhausting stuff.

Sat. 21st April. Advaced Base Camp. 6.400 m.

From Intermediate camp we dropped down a deep gully in the ice and up the other side onto the 'Mallory Highway' of medial moraine.

The 7 Summits expedition had their middle camp away from everyone else but this gives an idea of the size of the ice pinnacles or 'penitentes'.

The whole journey along the glacier was a very surreal landscape of ice and rock. Apart from the lack of air it was a pleasure to be there.

Up at ABC we joined the summiteers who'd just had a go at the North Col but who'd been beaten back by a sudden storm - which we'd also spent a couple of hours in before reaching ABC.

Here, Nick, Peter & Alex.

Ian. myself and a comatose Conor.

 Thomas, Jesper & Ian.

Fri. 20th April. To 'Intermediate Camp' 5,760 m.

The acclimatization was going well so we headed up to Intermediate camp at 5,760 m.

There were many yak trains going the same way as absolutely everything has to be shipped up there - tents, food, oxygen.

This time of year there were many frozen lakes which we were able to walk across.

Intermediate camp is very barren and inhospitable. It's basically a convenient stop for the yak herders so we spent the whole night being serenaded by incessant yak bells .

Wed. 18th April. Up the frozen river to 5,600 m.

The summit was particularly stormy this morning.

The frozen river led up a valley near Basecamp and was a fairly easy climb up to 5,600. The height gain being an important aspect of our acclimatization.

We'd been joined by Ceri, one of the summit team who hadn't being feeling too well so decided to acclimatize with us.

Tibet 2012. Mon. 9th April. Kathmandu

To Shona's store in Thamel to buy crampons and an ice-axe - both 'Black Diamond'.

Accompanied by one of our sherpa guides, Mingma. He is 22 and has been to the top of Everest twice.

In the evening, to Sam's Bar. One of my favourite places!

Tue. 24th July. Back to Wanaka.

The weather was closing in so a morning flight back to Wanaka.

Lunch by the Lake.
Then an evening curry with Kingfisher beers.

Mon. 25th July. 3rd day's climbing.

A snowy & windy day - selftimer shot.

The waterfalls were beautiful and challenging.
We managed to get a few bits of video, but the fingers went numb doing it.

Then the long walk back up to the Hut - but a fabulous sunset.

Sun. 24th July. Brady's 25th Birthday.

Another great day's climbing - some signs of improvement from everyone.

As it was Brady's birthday we had the Moet out of plastic mugs back in the hut.
It looks cosy but was well below zero.
He even got birthday candles stuck in his dessert.

Sat.23rd July. Flew up to Black Peak.

From Queenstown to Wanaka the previous day then a morning flight up to Black Peak Hut.

The other members of the party - Nicolette, Brady and our Instructor, Tim.
Climbing began right away and it was very cold but hugely exhiliarating.
First, just choose some frozen waterfalls.