Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Day 22. 30.9.07. Rongbuk to Jhangmu via Tingri.

Magically, Everest appears just after breakfast, then we turn our backs on it and head off on the 'Friendship Highway' towards Kathmandu.


We had lunch at Tingri, not quite a one horse town.


Incredible view of Shishapangma on the way - 14th highest mountain in the world at 8013 m., 26,291 ft.


Then there was Jhangmu!

Day 21. 29.9.07. Thank you to our Sherpas.

We had a little ceremony in the mess tent to say thanks to our Sherpas who looked after us so well. They were a great crew and forever smiling and tolerant of we geriatric westerners.

Thanks to Dorje,


To Mindoo,


To Dendy,


To Sonam,


To our chef, Jumba,


And to our sirdar, Lhakpa - always smiling!

Day 21. 29.9.07. Camp 2 to Rongbuk.

A long day's walk down the moraine - but at least it was downhill! AND tons of Oxygen!!!


Amazingly, Rongbuk has a 'hotel' which has no shortage of Lhasa beer.


The place is run by some very cute Tibetan ladies.


Phil makes the right choice.

Day 20. 28.9.07. ABC to Camp 2. - Going Down!

Everest summit shrouded in it's 'cap cloud'.



Back on the Mallory Highway.


The chasm in the glacier just above Camp 2.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Day 19. 27.9.07. Rest day at ABC.

A beautiful day! Tom, Dendy, Lhakpa & Mike had left at 2.00 am. to try for Lahakpa Ri but snow conditions turned them back just before Lhakpa La.


The whole Everest massif.


The 3rd step and summit pyramid 8,850 m., 29,035 ft.


Makalu, 5th highest mountain in the world at 8463 m., 27,765 ft., seen across a cloud free Rapui La.

Day 18. 26.9.07. Avalanche & walk to Rapui La, 6400 m., 21,000 ft.

Just after breakfast all the snow fell off Changtse. This was a big avalanche - as they say, "you had to be there". The photos don't do it justice.


These guys at the next camp were literally running for their lives - and were OK.


Then it was on with the crampons and into the glacier.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Day 17. 25.9.07. Acclimatization at ABC.

Whoah! A spot more snow. Basically a 'relaxation day' (trying to breathe) at ABC.



Day 16. 24.9.07. Camp 2 to Advanced Base Camp, 6340 m., 20,800 ft.

A spot of snow overnight.




It looks cold and it certainly was.


In the evening, as a mark of respect for the cuisine of the 1920s expeditions, we get stuck into the Quail pate and water biscuits that I brought specially for ABC.

Day 15. 23.9.07. Acclimatization day. Walk up the Mallory Highway.

My new friend, the ice-axe.

The Mallory Highway is the central moraine between two glaciers - existing here as massive ice pinnacles or 'penitentes' between 50 and 100 feet tall.
We walked 2 or 3 km. up to gain height and get the views of Everest's north-east ridge.




The ridge with the 1st, 2nd & 3rd steps and the summit pyramid easily visible.

Day 14. 22.9.07. Camp 1 to Camp 2. 5,937 m., 19,478 ft.

A day of walking on the rubble covered East Rongbuk glacier. Not bad as long as we went very slowly. Didi got a bit nauseated but was able to make it to camp. Once more a rocky and spectacular place.



Day 13. 21.9.07. Base Camp to Camp 1, 5483 m., 17,989 ft., East Rongbuk glacier.

Before we leave basecamp a monk from Rongbuk monastery performs a 'puja' a Buddhist ceremony to bless us, our expedition and our equipment.


While we are waiting for our yaks to arrive we are visited by Tim, Kunga (sirdar from last year) and Hugh & Clare.(Huge eclair)


On the way up we again visit the memorial site, specifically that of Peter Boardman & Joe Tasker who died in 1982 on the north-east ridge. Joe's girlfriend of those days wrote a book called 'Fragile Edge' and she asked Phil to place a sealed copy of it within the memorial. Phil also scattered some poppy seeds.


Camp 1 is a rocky, spartan kind of place but our tents and gear are excellent - as is the food prepared by Jumba, the cook.

Day 13. 21.9.07. The old and the new. 1922 & 2007

1922. Morshead, Mallory, Somervell, Norton.
2007. Gilding, Crozier, Crozier, Richardson.

Day 12. 20.9.07. 2nd Acclimatization day at Base Camp.

A day to 'climb high, sleep low'. We head up the hill immediately above base camp - a long scramble up loose rocks.


We reach 5800 m. then head down.


More great views of Everest and the glacier.


Tom with Lingtren (6749 m.) behind.