25th MAY. GOOD NEWS FROM EVEREST.

I heard that some of those I'd travelled with in Tibet had reached the summit of Everest in the early hours of 25th May.
Chris, the Canadian leader, along with Conor and Peter from the UK, Alex from Sweden and the Sherpas Dorje and Mingma stood on top. (Chris for the 2nd time, Mingma for the 3rd time and Dorje for the 8th time!).
Of the Swedish team of 4, Thomas, Jesper and Gabriel got as far as the Second Step before ending their attempt.
Congratulations to all of them on their magnificent effort and for returning safely.

Wed.23rd MAY. VERY SAD NEWS.

I was checking the various Everest blogs in the morning to see how my friends are doing - there are 7 or so still climbing.

I was stunned to read that my friend Juan Polo had died after reaching the summit in the previous 2 days.

Juan was a Spanish doctor living in Teneriffe. He joined our small group in Kathmandu and we travelled together, shared the dodgy hotel rooms and ate the same appalling chinese slops as we drove into Tibet and lingered at Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri, basecamp then up to ABC.

Juan was friendly, cheerful, quick to smile and totally enthusiastic about his attempt to climb Everest.

I'm sad that we will be unable to swap notes about Everest and his climb. 

RIP.

Fri 18th MAY. Well done WILLSHAW.

Settled back into work, but by the magic of the interwebs - ie. Facebook. I heard that my trekking companion from Pakistan and the Baltoro, John Willshaw, has become mayor of Kendall.

I assume there is unlimited mint cake as a perk.

Sat. 5th May. KATHMANDU.

A short flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu but all the mountains covered in very thick cloud.

In Kathmandu we had lunch at the Northfield Cafe - having browsed Pilgrim's Bookshop for an hour or so.

That evening, back to Sam's Bar for the customary excess of cocktails.

Then, back to Australia!

Fri. 4th May. To the Jokhang Temple

No photographs inside this holy of holies but it is a very special place.

The Tibets come here to worship from all over greater Tibet.

As a souvenir I bought myself a yak carved out of a stone called Purple Jade.

Then in the evening some yak tongue & chips washed down with more 'Great Wall' red.

Thu. 3rd May. To the Potala.

To the 500 year old Potala Palace. Once the seat of the Dalai Lama and now a museum - but still revered by the Tibetans.

And in the evening - just had to try some 'Great Wall' red wine.

Wed. 2nd May To LHASA

In the morning, a quick look at Tashilunpo monastery. This is the seat of the Panchen Lama. Many locals were prostrating themselves but were closely watched by the police.

It was a few hours drive to Lhasa but as soon as we arrived we went into the old part of town - here the moslem butcher with his yak meat.

The Jhokang Temple, holiest place in Tibet. There were very few western tourists and I was amazed at the military and police presence.

Essentially there is a massive clampdown going on because of recent protests by Tibetans. This has taken the form of self immolation by monks and nuns. So far this year 29 have burnt themselves to death. It was therefore a little 'in your face' to see squads of soldiers patrolling the Barkhor (in the wrong direction) armed with sticks and fire extinguishers!

I was on the look out for these things. They are the medicinal 'caterpillar fungus', Cordyseps Sinensis. These little fellows cost $375 per gram. Almost 7 times more expensive than the current gold price!

Rounded off the afternoon with some Yak Butter Tea - an aquired taste.

Tue. 1st May. Rongbuk to Shigatse via Pang La.

Left Rongbuk at 6.00 am so no chance to say goodbye to the rest of the team.

We drove in a 4 wheel drive to Pang La and had this great view of Gyachung Kang and Cho Oyu, but Everest was totally in cloud.

We then went on to to Shigatse, home of Tashilunpo Monastery (closed) but walked down the road to see the recently rebuilt Dzong.

Good Tibetan meal in the Songtsen restaurant - plus beers of course.

Mon. 30th April. Last day at Basecamp.

The last day at Rongbuk for Lee, Nick & me.

The mountain clear but the jet stream still doing it's thing.

Ceri & I held a general knowledge quiz.

I thought everybody knew the 4 members of Pink Floyd.

Alex, Thomas, Nick, Lee, Conor.

Ian, Peter,  Gabriel, Jesper.

Alex, Thomas.

Sun. 29th April.

Today - more time to fill.

Gabriel & Jesper held a music quiz.

I just said 'Abba' to all their questions so did quite well.

Ceri, Thomas, Ian & Conor.

Peter, Nick & me. Peter knew nothing about music!

Sat. 28th April. Games at Basecamp.

To fill in the waiting time at basecamp Thomas devised an 'olympic games' - most of it out in the cold.

Various tasks had to be completed - mental (with no oxygen?) and physical.

This was throwing stones and knocking over cans!

Chris, our Canadian guide, watched from afar.

Ceri, Nick Ian & me. The ugg boots were pure luxury.

Gabriel, Thomas & Jesper check the photos which they post on their Swedish blog.

Then the usual evening display.

Fri. 27th April. Rest at Basecamp.

Next morning the mountain was still clear, but....

..by the afternoon the storm had arrived.

We were cosy enough in our mess tent, here Conor & Thomas..

Alex & Jesper.

Thu. 26th April. ABC down to Basecamp.

The weather forecast was for very strong winds - 90 to 100 kph -  and possible snow over the next few days so reluctantly we decided to get off the mountain and back to Basecamp.

Here, Nick outside our mess tent as we are leaving.

At the end of the East Rongbuk glacier is a pass called the Rapui La and beyond that is Makalu, 5th highest mountain in the world at 8.481 m.

Back at basecamp Everest looking very benign in the evening light with the 'yellow ban' clearly visible.

Wed. 25th April. To the North Col. 6,700 m.

The plan was to get to the fixed ropes at the base of the North Col. This meant walking about 2 km. up from ABC to 'Crampon Point' where donning the crampons let us walk another km. across the glacier to the ropes.

If you look closely (or click on this photo) you can see a line of over 30 Sherpas carrying gear up to the top of the North Col at 7,000 m.

We had this very clear view of the north ridge, the north-east ridge (with 1st, 2nd & 3rd steps) and the summit.

Dorje amd me posing directly in line with the summit, cloud streaming off the pinnacles.

The surprisingly welcome sight of ABC.